north shore!

the fabled north shore of oahu - surfing's hallowed grounds. this 7 mile strip of beach is home to the world's most famous (and infamous) surf breaks - sunset, backdoor, log cabins, waimea bay, and of course the heaviest of them all, pipeline. funny thing is, during the summer time the water's of the north shore are calm as a bath tub but come winter and the shift of the swells some of the gnarliest sets around roll through.
it has been a strange winter and swells have been few and far between. today saw 8-12 (4-6 hawaiian) foot faces - nothing to gawk at for sure. hawaiians measure their waves from the back, so in california would be considered a 20 footer is merely 10 in hawaii. this is because hawaiians measure from the back of the wave, the front of a wave has a large concave to it from the vaccum like swirl it produces, whcih makes the face of the wave twice the size of the back.

surfah in from a set...

get out...

checkin the sets...

heading back to the volcom house...

it was a bodyboarder day...

having fun at waimea...

peace!