the fabled north shore of oahu - surfing's hallowed grounds. this 7 mile strip of beach is home to the world's most famous (and infamous) surf breaks - sunset, backdoor, log cabins, waimea bay, and of course the heaviest of them all, pipeline. funny thing is, during the summer time the water's of the north shore are calm as a bath tub but come winter and the shift of the swells some of the gnarliest sets around roll through.
it has been a strange winter and swells have been few and far between. today saw 8-12 (4-6 hawaiian) foot faces - nothing to gawk at for sure. hawaiians measure their waves from the back, so in california would be considered a 20 footer is merely 10 in hawaii. this is because hawaiians measure from the back of the wave, the front of a wave has a large concave to it from the vaccum like swirl it produces, whcih makes the face of the wave twice the size of the back.
peace!
Friday, December 28, 2007
north shore!
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